New Projects as Always :)

I realize that the last post I made was talking about the vyshyvanka that I want to make. It's still a plan (I bought a bolt of linen eeee! :D) but I have every intention of it being a winter project. I'll also make a shirt or two for my husband out of the linen. It's a little sheer, so I'll have to see how to get it so that I don't need a slip underneath as that'd be a pain in the butt.


This is the testing phase of my embroidery plans. I'll probably adjust it a little from this, but this is a rough start for the sleeve embroideries. I have not tested the second diagonal pattern (which is simple) nor the round symbols around the neckline etc etc. I also need to figure out how to do the decorated seams.

However! I just bought some silver sequin spider web sheer fabric from Joann's and now I'm all a-buzz about what my halloween outfit is going to look like. I have a spider web sheer jacket with a peplum and dangling sleeves from Hot Topic circa 2000, and I'm going to make a sheer overskirt with the new fabric and a black long slip or dress. Maybe if I get off my butt and do it soon, I can do silver spider details along the skirt too!

Of course, I have all of these embroidery plans, but who knows how much I'll actually want to do that considering my student and I will be working on her senior collection this year and MUCH of it will be embroidering bugs onto sheer and see-through jackets and skirts. So, we shall see!

Middle of the Night Wedding Dress Update

So sewing the pleats down took more like 3 or 4 hours. Attaching the crin took more like an hour and a half. I'm halfway done with folding up the hem, but I'll also need to go back through and keep the up-fold of the hem tacked down (long story short, due to wonkiness with the hem length, it's a three step process instead of a two step process. boohoo me).

I have ten hours before my client picks it up. And I am burnt out for now. I'm finding it difficult to soldier on. (And I literally could not open my eyes this morning for my intended morning sewing.) Looks like it's bed and an early morning for me. There's NOT much to do, but it just feels never ending.

Blargle.

Wedding Dress Update

My client had final fittings today. The bad news is: it doesn't fit perfectly out of the box. The good news is: it's too BIG. Which is totes manageable.

So what I have left to do before she picks the dress up on Wednesday noon:

-- tack down the new pleat positions, < 1 hour
-- adjust the fit at the very top, 30 mins
-- attach crin to the bottom, < 1 hour
-- hem, 45 mins -- attach inner facing along top, 1 1/2 hours
-- attach button and buttonhole tab above zipper, 30 mins
-- add additional hook on halter, 10 mins

So yeah. Very do-able. Very good news. IT'S ALMOST DONE :D

Bridesmaid Dress

I am a bridesmaid for my good friend L. We are at less than 2 months until the big day, and I need to get off my butt and make a bridesmaid dress. When I asked what she had thought for the dresses (there are SIX of us), she sent me a picture of a color. Dark teal. Guess what color isn't popular for early summer?

(*sigh) It's a beautiful color, but difficult to find at the moment. But I ordered some fabric from Denver Fabrics, and am working on a pattern. I believe I'm going to use this 20s dress:


I'm going to use view A, and have a side zip and a clasp on the left shoulder, so that the whole top of the gown will open up. I'm going to have the undergown be more of a sheath than shapeless, and I will use the little flounces as is, but with a sheer. I'm hoping it'll be cute and fluttery. But I'm going to make a wearable muslin and we shall see!

Sewing Thoughts

So I am super desirous of a 30s style slip. And maybe a nightgown. Tap pants? I just want silky decadent underthings. So here are some inspo:

Firstly, a 20s dress that the Dreamstress made that I desperately want for this year's 20s linen dress.


And the lingerie:

Because I No Longer Trust Websites to Remain Active

Here is a pdf of a pattern, entitled Bobble Stitch Jumper. Source here.

Embroidery Lessons

So I was doing the planning for my embroidery student's first lesson next week. I started looking up beginner projects (hella boring) and beginner tutorials. I found things like lists of the top 10 beginner stitches and 16 ways to embroider leaves!

I'm changing it up a little. The stitches that will be involved in my student's first project are:
- running stitch
- back stitch
- split stitch
- stem stitch
- satin stitch
- chain stitch
- lazy daisy
- colonial knots
- woven wheel


This'll be embroidered on some plain muslin or a hankie. The name is backstitch (and either cursive or script). Border is running stitch and chain stitch. Corner in split stitch with lazy daisy and colonial knots. Woven wheel under initial. Small flower in stem stitch, lazy daisy, and colonial knots. Medium flower in stem stitch and colonial knots. Tall flower in stem stitch, satin stitch and colonial knots.

I'm using colonial knots over French knots as I have never had good luck with French knots and colonial knots seem fool-proof.

The first lesson will probably be doing the backstitch for the name. I'll also sketch out all of the details, so that the running stitch could be done in the week between lessons. But this should be fun! I'm looking forward to this.

Sewing Plans

Ok. So January's sewing plans aka Time Before Yvonne Comes Back. Finish my suit skirt. I need to take out the machine hem, put in hem tape, hem it by hand, rehem the clusterfuck that is the lining, attach lining hem to outer hem, and everything involving the waistband.

Make the suit jacket. I keep delaying because I have to clean the studio and wah wah wah.

Get my butt in gear for Metamorphoses. I meet with a second assistant next week. The next production meeting is 1/23, but I want to have plenty done by then.

Fix my purple plaid skirt. It's currently unwearable as I cannot take a full step in it. I HAVE extra fabric to use to make it walkable, I just haven't inserted it yet.

Updates on VSS and Suit

So I mailed out the package to my Secret Santa giftee yesterday. I wrapped everything and drew a little Christmas themed image with silver sharpie. I also wound up using the LAST of the burgundy/gold star wrapping paper that I got when I was in college! It's weird to not have it still around. :-P

I definitely didn't have time to make a full vintage suit before my wedding, but I'm borrowing a blouse from the mother of two of my students (her face when I said I'd find something lying around my house was absolutely hilarious), and I WILL have time to make the skirt for the suit this weekend.

While proctoring this week I finalized the design and I wrote out the steps. It'll be a upper-calf length skirt, based off of the Edwardian 5-gore skirt I used for Earnest, and with lots of pleating in the back panels. It'll also be flatlined with the wrap-around sneaky method (you wind up with "hong kong" finished edges as well as the lining.

Steps for Skirt
1) Re-draft pattern for my measurements. Make sure to adjust BOTH width and length uniformly.
2) Double check seam lengths before finalizing.
3) Cut out wool and silk.
4) Zigzag edges of all pieces.
5) Hem silk panels.
6) Attach silk to wool.
7) Stitch side seams.
8) Set zipper.
9) Pleat back panels.
10) Interface waistband.
11) Bias bind waistband edge.
12) Attach waistband; use stitch in the ditch coupled with bias bound edge for inner edge.
13) Attach hem tape to wool.
14) Catch stitch hem of wool.
15) Slip stitch silk hem to wool hem.
16) Handwork buttonhole.
17) Attach button and garment loops.

I will try to photodocument this process, but it's mostly straight forward.

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I ALSO put together a basic step order for the suit jacket:
- make mock-up to test fit
- cut out wool
- bound buttonholes
- interfacing! carrier strips, pad stitching, tailor basting, etc.
- twill tape on roll line
- interlining
- seaming
- cut and sew lining
- attach pockets
- lining + jacket
- hand sew hems at sleeves and body

** Interline jacket with flannel to protect from hair canvas through thin lining **

interline sleeves?
add tiny double welt pockets near shoulder?

Cozy 20s Velvet Gowns?!

So while browsing Etsy, I came across a bunch of gorgeous 20s and 30s velvet dresses, and I'd like to recreate at least one of them.

Number One's description is:

Dress Features: - icy sage green velvet
- 3/4 length sleeves with snaps at cuffs
- v-neck with puckering at bust
- slight drop waist seam
- loose fitting belt
- snaps on side
- wearable for a few sizes depending on preferred fit

(Found on Etsy here)

Number Two's Description is:

A FABULOUS 1920'S BROWN VELVET FLAPPER DRESS..Pictures don't do this any justice, it is breathtaking in person. AMAZING LACE RUNNING DOWN THE SLEEVES AND ON THE V OF THE BODICE. I think someone added snaps on the lace as to be able to fold up the cuffs, I would remove them....but I will leave that to the buyer....Nice Metal detailing on the belt... Great Piece to wear for the Holidays, or a vintage wedding....

(Found on Etsy here)

Number Three's description is:

Midnight silhouette of an Art Deco dream.

Material - midnight black, silk velvet, cream colored lace, Mother of Pearl clasp buckle.

Design - This beautifully designed dresses made it's way through time from the very late 1920's. It features a built in silk and intricately woven lace camisole, which is then covered by a silk velvet caplet. The caplet is sewn to the front of the dress, where a hidden weight, so popular at the time, was used to create a draping effect at the neckline and in the back it is attached only at the neckline allowing it to hang and flow away from the body. The skirt of the dress is form fitted at the waist, with arched panels built into the sides to give flair tot he skirt. The dress also has a lovely like material belt with a carved mother of pearl clasp buckle and side snaps.

(Found on Etsy here.)

Number Four's description is:

Vintage 1930s deep burgundy silk velvet dress. Shirred shoulders natural cotton lace collar and trim around sleeves. Gathered at waist with side metal snap closure and removable buckle belt.

(Found on Etsy here.)

Number Five's description is:

Vintage 1930s black silk velvet cocktail dress! Ruched panel at bust and velvet belt at waist. This dress is figure flattering and so luxuriously soft! Perfect for a special occasion! Zipper at back of neck and at side.

(Found on Etsy here.)