Saturday, August 8, 2015
Update on Pants
So yet again, I hate pants with a fiery, burning passion. Here is the catalogue of sins for this current pair of pants.
What the hell is going on with that hem? One pant leg is all borked and crooked, but the other pant leg hangs beautifully. I have yet to make a pair of pants that DOESN'T do this.
I have the zipper facing the wrong direction. This was a problem that started with cutting and meant I had to install the zipper twice, etc. etc.
I installed the zipper in the wrong spot, adding 3" to my front waist measurement. This meant I had to scramble to find a way to remove those inches.
I intended to have extra seam allowance in the normal place along the back for adjustment purposes. Somehow that got scrambled during the chalking out of the pattern and I had extra seam allowance along the side seams. Where the pocket lives. Thus making it useless.
The pockets were a royal pain in the ass, but overall got in there. I need to figure out exactly how to make it so that the side seams are ONE seam, and not 3 short ones navigating the pocket, but that's minor.
The back was completely uneven. The dart, the pocket, and the crease were about an inch closer to the center on one side of the back. I adjusted the back seam on one side in an endeavor to remove the aforementioned 3" and made the back hang a little more evenly.
The pants are baggy and ugly as hell -- I think I'll trim down the sides for the next pair of pants. Either that or I borked my seam allowance, which is also entirely possible.
Misjudged the seam allowance for my flat fell seams, so used the French seams that are sewn down to one side to replicate the flat fell, but perhaps this threw off my seam allowance?
The waistband attachment is an ugly kludge, but whatever. A good pressing, that I am too frustrated to do at this moment, could work that out.
I forgot to include a place on the waistband for the zipper protection flap. Whoops. Look who doesn't care. I'll solve this next time by just cutting the waistband with a few extra inches to spare.
Things that came out reasonably well: the overarching zipper installation isn't terrible. It's one of my better crotches. The back patch pockets turned out well, and my topstitching is pretty. The side pockets aren't bad -- a little blurphly because of the side seam, but the pocket installation went well. The creases are working out well. And it actually fits like it's supposed to, which is a plus.
Labels:
fitting issues,
menswear,
pants,
sewing
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