The basic Edwardian 5-Gore Skirt pattern that I found was designed for a tiny person, with a length of only 36 inches. So as to keep the proportions the same, I found the length for MY person (45 inches roughly) and scaled it up. This involves dividing every number by 4, and then multiplying it by 5 for the finished numbers. (The image is of MY new numbers). This allows for a skirt front to have center front numbers from 5.5" -> 6.825", 11.5" -> 14.325" etc etc. It should be pretty obvious, but I go to the nearest 1/8th of an inch. I don't like fussing about sixteenths.
And that's the basics for redrafting a design that already has measurements all over it (like most Victorian/Edwardian drafting). The main difference between this pattern and my actual skirt will be length. I adjusted the pattern for full length, but I'm only going to go to upper calf length.
In order to do the wrap-around-Hong-Kong seam finish, while my wool will have 1" seam allowance all around, my silk will have 1.75" seam allowance, so as to allow for a 3/8" seam edging.
I will get a chance to start breaking into my fabric after my last student of the day, who should be here in 10 mins or so. I'm excited!
Saturday, December 19, 2015
Skirt Drafting
The basic Edwardian 5-Gore Skirt pattern that I found was designed for a tiny person, with a length of only 36 inches. So as to keep the proportions the same, I found the length for MY person (45 inches roughly) and scaled it up. This involves dividing every number by 4, and then multiplying it by 5 for the finished numbers. (The image is of MY new numbers). This allows for a skirt front to have center front numbers from 5.5" -> 6.825", 11.5" -> 14.325" etc etc. It should be pretty obvious, but I go to the nearest 1/8th of an inch. I don't like fussing about sixteenths.
And that's the basics for redrafting a design that already has measurements all over it (like most Victorian/Edwardian drafting). The main difference between this pattern and my actual skirt will be length. I adjusted the pattern for full length, but I'm only going to go to upper calf length.
In order to do the wrap-around-Hong-Kong seam finish, while my wool will have 1" seam allowance all around, my silk will have 1.75" seam allowance, so as to allow for a 3/8" seam edging.
I will get a chance to start breaking into my fabric after my last student of the day, who should be here in 10 mins or so. I'm excited!
Labels:
projects,
suits,
tailoring,
womenswear
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