Friday, December 18, 2015

Updates on VSS and Suit

So I mailed out the package to my Secret Santa giftee yesterday. I wrapped everything and drew a little Christmas themed image with silver sharpie. I also wound up using the LAST of the burgundy/gold star wrapping paper that I got when I was in college! It's weird to not have it still around. :-P

I definitely didn't have time to make a full vintage suit before my wedding, but I'm borrowing a blouse from the mother of two of my students (her face when I said I'd find something lying around my house was absolutely hilarious), and I WILL have time to make the skirt for the suit this weekend.

While proctoring this week I finalized the design and I wrote out the steps. It'll be a upper-calf length skirt, based off of the Edwardian 5-gore skirt I used for Earnest, and with lots of pleating in the back panels. It'll also be flatlined with the wrap-around sneaky method (you wind up with "hong kong" finished edges as well as the lining.

Steps for Skirt
1) Re-draft pattern for my measurements. Make sure to adjust BOTH width and length uniformly.
2) Double check seam lengths before finalizing.
3) Cut out wool and silk.
4) Zigzag edges of all pieces.
5) Hem silk panels.
6) Attach silk to wool.
7) Stitch side seams.
8) Set zipper.
9) Pleat back panels.
10) Interface waistband.
11) Bias bind waistband edge.
12) Attach waistband; use stitch in the ditch coupled with bias bound edge for inner edge.
13) Attach hem tape to wool.
14) Catch stitch hem of wool.
15) Slip stitch silk hem to wool hem.
16) Handwork buttonhole.
17) Attach button and garment loops.

I will try to photodocument this process, but it's mostly straight forward.


I ALSO put together a basic step order for the suit jacket:
- make mock-up to test fit
- cut out wool
- bound buttonholes
- interfacing! carrier strips, pad stitching, tailor basting, etc.
- twill tape on roll line
- interlining
- seaming
- cut and sew lining
- attach pockets
- lining + jacket
- hand sew hems at sleeves and body

** Interline jacket with flannel to protect from hair canvas through thin lining **

interline sleeves?
add tiny double welt pockets near shoulder?

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